A Sunday Afternoon in Bishkek


 

Bishkek is filled with some of the most unique architecture I have seen. Soviet modernist and brutalist designs line the streets while triumphant monuments rest in the parks. The city is known for its trees that line most of the main throughways.

My friend Anton also has in interest in Soviet architecture. He plotted out an entire map with hundreds of monuments and buildings. So what did we do? We walked the entire city center to find the most we could in a day.


Ala-Too Square

Built in 1984, Ala-Too square is named after the mountain range which sits just south of Bishkek. The square was formally named after Vladimir Lenin until the country’s independence in 1991. Below sits the Kyrgyz State Historical Museum. You can see the Ala-Too mountain range in the reflection of the glass.


Bishkek Baatyr

Bishkek Baatyr is a state-proclaimed national hero who defended the Kyrgyz homelands from invaders in the 18th century. Bishkek Baatyr is still debated as Historians attempt to piece together the history.


Kurmanzhan Datka

Kurmanzhan was born in 1811 and is known for her political involvement and diplomatic relationships with leaders from the neighboring regions of Russia, China, and even Afghanistan.


A Soviet built soda shop


You can find these boxing machines in the parks or near the nightclubs. It’s a fun way to impress your date although I don’t think mine was very impressed…. I scored pretty low.


Revolution

On April 6th, 2010, the city of Talas erupted into protests. Kyrgyz citizens were dissatisfied with the presidents corruption, oppressive polices, and rising utility costs. The next day Ala-Too Square erupted in protests where the Parliament building was surrounded and later stormed. 90 Kyrgyz citizens were killed with another 1,500 injured. New presidential elections were held later that year and a new parliamentary system was constructed.


Stella of Friendship of Peoples

Built in 1974, this monument signifies the 100th anniversary of when Kyrgyzstan joined the former Russian empire in 1876.


Vladimir Lenin

A statue of Lenin was completed in 1984 which stood in front of the State Historical Museum until 2003. His statue now rests behind the Museum. A red star of flowers also sits in front of Lenin.


Most of the streets and sidewalks of Bishkek are cleaned daily. If you see a trashcan filled to the top, don’t worry. Workers from the sanitation department wake up in the early hours to sweep the streets with brooms and collect trash.


Drink stands are located on just about every corner in Bishkek. A variety of national drinks are sold for just a few soms each. No more than ten cents to a dollar.

Here is whats on the menu:

  • Tan - fermented cow milk.

  • Maksym- barley, corn, wheat

  • Kvass- fermented rye bread (.1% alcoholic)


Karl Marx and Fredrich Engels

Karl Marx (left) was a German economist famous for his societal and political viewpoints expressed in his book The Communist Manifesto. Fredrich Engels (right) also co-authored the manifesto. Their ideas would later influence the Bolshevik parties move to establish communism in a Post-Tsarist Russia.


Panfilov Park

The park was first built in 1924 and its pathways make the shape of a star when viewed from above. The park was named after USSR General Ivan Panfilov after he was killed in 1941 in the battle of Moscow. He was in charge the 316th Division which consisted of Kyrgyz and Kazakh reservists.

I first walked through this park on a Sunday morning before the rides were open. It made for some interesting pictures down below.


Sports Palace

Built in 1974, the Sports Palace is a communal facility which basically functions similarly to a YMCA. Its brutalist design fronts an aggressive facade supported with v-shaped trusses.

The statue of Kojomkul was erected in 2004. Born in the late 19th century, he is remembered for his physical strength and ability to overcome any challenge presented to him.


MIG 21

The MIG 21 was introduced in the late 1950’s by the Soviet aerospace company, Mikoyan-Gurevich. This particular MIG now sits in front of a Kyrgyz military building.


Batken Memorial

In 1999 Islamic militants supporting the Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan made numerous incursions into the Batken region of Kyrgyzstan. This region is located in the southwest of the country where the borders are highly disputed. Both the Uzbek and Kyrgyz Armed Forces worked together in a joint operation to push the militants back into the neighboring country of Tajikistan. The conflict lasted over two months. As a result, 32 civilians and soldiers were killed.

This border region is still contested today.


 


The Great Patriotic War

Completed in 1985, this WWII monument was constructed in the shape of a Yurt with three arches with an the eternal flame beneath.


Circus

Built in 1976, the circus hosts performances once a month. More importantly, this was the scene for one of Bald and Bankrupts introductions in his youtube series covering the country.


Mosaics

Mosaics were used to spread Soviet ideology and patriotism.


The post office (above)

Kyrgyz National Museum of Fine Arts (left)


The Clouds Roll In

Another visit to Panfilov park. The view from the Ferris Wheel is incredible.


Mikhail V. Frunze

Frunze was a born in the late 19th century in Bishkek. He is known for his leadership role within the Bolshevik movement and would become a Red Army commander in the Russian Civil War.

The M.V Frunze Museum (below) was built over the original house Frunze was born in.


Just another Lada

Water fountain located in Oak Park.


ALA-TOO Cinema

I never actually watched a movie here but I remember seeing a movie trailer for Top Gun in Russian.


Erkindik Boulevard Park

The park is named after the Kyrgyz word for freedom.

Soviet Heroes from The Great Patriotic War line the walkways.


Bread is very sacred in Russian culture. Bread is treated gently and respectfully. My professor used to tell me, “A small piece could have saved someone’s life during Stalins famines.”

Any leftovers are given to the birds in this little house.


The park consists of two walkways that provide peace and relaxation from the busy streets. I found myself walking this park a couple times a week.


This is an example of a modern style of architecture that many developers are using throughout the city.


A truck driver eating a mandarin orange. Why not?


I decided to end this post with a Subaru driving down the boulevard past the Constitutional Courthouse


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