Snowed in
Karakol is a cozy mountain town with some of the friendliest people you will meet. Seriously! A guy four houses down from my guest house waved as he yelled, “What’s up, bro? How are you?” For a second, I felt as if I might have been standing in my driveway back home, but the sound of snow beneath my boots and the constant wind nipping at my hands snapped me back into experiencing my first white Christmas in a decade. I’m ninety miles away from the border with Xinjiang, China, where some of the world’s tallest mountains converge on the map. However, thick grey snow clouds hide their northern faces as I search around for my gloves in the town below. Somehow they escaped from my heavy camouflage multi-pocket winter coat. Thankfully, a morning cappuccino from a small cafe grants a bit of warmth as an all-night vigil in a shoulder-to-shoulder packed 19th-century Orthodox church on the eve of Orthodox Christmas waits to thaw my frozen hands from my camera. I spent three days with my colleague, trudging through the snow and stumbling upon picturesque streets, statues of prominent figures, and beautiful small-town architecture. Every corner we turned strengthened my desire to visit again.
New Years celebrations
A Statue of Zhusup Abdrakhmanov, the first Chairman of the Council of People's Commissars of the Kyrgyz ASSR
Karakol is rich with well-preserved 19th-century architecture. The Holy Trinity Russian Orthodox Church, constructed in 1895, is perhaps the most notable site. I attended a service on the Eve of Christmas and found myself surrounded by a deeply devout Russian community. Young boys and girls dressed in camouflage uniforms took turns shoveling snow around the church grounds while their grandparents lit candles inside. Nearby shops sell flowers, snow or shine.
Just down the street past the remaining Krushevkas and colorful blue shuttered single-story homes is a Dungan Mosque, built in 1910. The Dungan people migrated from China in the late 19th century due to religious persecution. A great way to enjoy Dungan culture is to try a bowl of their famous Ashlan-Fu, cold noodles submerged in spicy soup.
Karakol Ski Base
