Almaty
Nestled in the northern base of the Trans-Ili Alatau mountains is the energetic and relaxed city of Almaty, Kazakhstan. Almaty once served as the capital of the Kazakh Soviet Socialist Republic. After independence, Almaty quickly grew into one of the most developed cities in the post-Soviet space. The business and financial sector has contributed to the fast-paced energy of Almaty with close to two million people living here today.
How can a city with this many people also feel relaxed as I mentioned? I found its relaxed attitude resting in the urban layout designed by Soviet planners. The city center is designed in a grid pattern spanning over twenty blocks. Bazaars, mosques, and parks are scattered throughout the blocks creating an architecturally and culturally diverse landscape. Despite the increasing vehicle congestion, sidewalks and bike lanes offer a great alternative for people to access the city by foot.
These walkable spaces provide a quieter setting away from the streets. Some paths are shielded behind trees or cut through apartment blocks.
The mountains also provide the perfect escape from living in the big city. The range dominates the city skyline with elevations of around 14,000ft.
Sairan Reservoir
An empty lake, fountain, or reservoir has a special way of shaping the landscape and the objects in and around it. The Sairan Reservoir located on the western side of the city currently feels like a hollow space while life continues past its perimeter of empty beachfronts. Children’s playgrounds and metal umbrellas dot the beach reminding us how lively it might have been with people enjoying the summertime. Although this space in the city takes on a depressive role, it may return to its normal state of being an active center for people living in the surrounding apartments. The reservoir was full just one year before. There seems to be talk of a new change in ownership which could result in developments in and around the reservoir.
The sounds of motor vehicles on Tole Bi Street became silent as I continued further south. I gazed across the reservoir to see a few locals walking across its empty basin. They slowly took out their phones to snap a photo of the interesting setting they found themselves in.
The raindrops collecting on my camera bag started to become heavier. I thought about making my way toward a rusted pier for shelter until I was interrupted by a pack of stray dogs running in my direction. Three dogs saw me standing alone and decided it would be a good idea to give me a warm welcome back to the city. I missed the relaxed attitude that Almaty provided until it all disappeared as the constant barking became louder. The adrenaline hit me as I braced myself for one of the dogs to bite me. Thankfully, they stopped five feet away from me only to continue barking. I stood still looking at the saliva mouthed dogs in their eyes. I remembered to never look a dog in the eye to not provoke them into fighting. I continued to search the bottom of the reservoir for something to protect myself with. I picked up a stick robust enough to withstand one hit. I would occasionally tell them to “shoosh” attempting to calm the dogs down. After an intense thirty-second standoff, two of the dogs gave up and walked back into the tree line while the pack leader continued to follow me. Finally, it decided my camera and thirty-pound bag no longer made me look like a threat. It slowly walked away. At that moment, I felt I was in a wasteland where anything could threaten my existence. This moment will always remind me that I am capable of remaining calm in sudden situations where I could be harmed. I just failed to take a picture…
The Bolshaya Almatinka runs glacial water safely through the city.
Republic Square
This infamous square was built in the 1970s.
In the first week of 2022, protests popped up in multiple cities across the country. Rising gas prices resulted in thousands of people calling for changes in government. In Almaty, protests turned violent as citizens stormed government offices located in the square. Russian troops were eventually deployed into the country to protect important places of significance such as international airports and other governmental sites. Russia and Kazakhstan are both members of the Collective Security Treaty Organization which permits this form of military intervention. However, the presence of Russian soldiers is still widely debated.
The building above houses the office of Channel One Eurasia. The building caught ablaze during the protests and is currently draped in a facade depicting the original design of the building.
Below rests a memorial to commemorate the lives lost during the 2022 January protests. I linked an article explaining the memorial in detail as described by Kazakhstani President Kassym-Jomart Tokayev.
Below are the offices of the mayor of Almaty. It is also currently under restoration.
Al-Farabi Avenue
Al Farabi Avenue is a six to eight-lane stretch of road that runs along the southern edge of the city blocks. It is commonly known for its horrible traffic jams. Much of the nation’s wealth can be found along this avenue such as expensive cars and luxury apartments.
The tall glass building above is home to office space and the Ritz Carlton, one of two locations in the country. The luxury hotel is also in the capital, Astana. Adjacent is the Esentai Mall. The mall boasts several designer brands from Gucci to others I have never heard of. Expensive cars also stay parked and monitored by valet attendants.
Green Bazaar
A bazaar is a more traditional method of exchanging goods for money in Central Asia. Produce, clothing, electronics, and memorabilia are sold here. It is a great way to taste a wide variety of Kazakh cuisine and practice my bargaining skills in Russian.
Panfilov Park
The Park of 28 Panfilov Guardsmen has seen numerous changes throughout its history. The Park is currently named after Red Army General Ivan Panfilov who commanded the 316th Kazakh and Kyrgyz reservists during World War II. Their forces were small but successful in defending Moscow against the Nazi regime.
“Russia is great, but there is nowhere to hide behind Moscow!”
“Brest Fortress.”
In 1941 Soviet soldiers attempted to defend a castle along the Belarusian and Polish border against the Germans. The battle is seen as a sign of great bravery and courage. The names of other important battles from the war also receive their own stone of remembrance.
“Eternal glory to the fallen by the struggle for freedom and independence of the mother land!”
The eternal flame
Military History Museum of the Ministry of Defense of Kazakhstan
All paths lead to Ascension Cathedral located in the center of the park. the Orthodox Cathedral was built in 1907 and even survived an 8.1 magnitude earthquake in 1911.
As of late 2022, McDonalds has officially left Kazakhstan due to supply chain difficulties caused by the sanctions placed on Russia after the war in Ukraine.
It was one of the busiest McDonald’s I’ve ever seen and the food looked exactly like the picture. Somehow that helps make it taste better. Hey, presentation matters.
July 2023 update: I returned to this location to find a banner hanging over the sign saying “Мы открыты,” which translates into “We are open.”
